Wool and Fur
11:30 – 12:00hr UMA WANG
Museo ‘900 Arengario, P.za Duomo
Buondì, had you taken your coffee yet? I am glad you make it a habit to read my blog during breakfast time. I hope it will be more entertaining than reading your local newspaper – at least. There’s so much people lining and getting inside this huge venue that morning. But mind you some unreasonable PR will tell you that since this place is an 18th century palace, they only have limited space. That means you won’t be invited. I hate to talk shit in the morning but at least do you know what an 18th century palace looks? It would be like the run-down building in front of my apartment, for God’s sake! Had you for once looked online at wikipedia and I had to quote it from there “It was completed in the 1950s and currently houses the Museo del Novecento, a museum dedicated to 20th-century art.” So, it’s not 18th century honey, it’s mid-19th century! I am glad after the swamp of people I made it through the show. Since Uma Wang won the Vogue’s Talent to her first fashion show, I am not blowing my horn but I am the few amongst the many who followed her development as a designer. For a common mortal like me, it would be missing something not to see what she will be able to present for the next season. Let’s face it, almost everything is fast fashion and it’s important for people like me who writes and blogs about fashion to be the first one to get it first and get it right. Otherwise, it’s like recycling a second hand information if you get it from others. Wang’s progression brings about into the displacement of time and space. She had chosen textiles that represent some 19th century French wallpaper, some patterns of a middle-eastern carpet with dry blood red tone and structuring them into Japanese origami folds. Very evident to the outerwears, long dresses and pyjamas. Like the personal aesthetics of Wang, the models had no makeup look and long-length hair with a middle cut. Me and my photographer had the chance to go at the backstage where we also had gotten up close and personal with the designer, the models and the moodboard. I noticed the framed waistline of the back details of some pieces which might be a bold move for Wang to demonstrate the meeting of occidental and oriental style. In which, I would put on my own words as east meets west femininity!
13:15-13:40hr PAULA CADEMARTORI
Via Borgogna, 3, near P.za San Babila
Some Alzheimer’s disease could have hit me, I wasn’t sure if I was there in the morning or early in this afternoon. So, you can always correct me especially if you are following me on my instagram @rosalyescueta, please spare me. By the way, today starts some press days in town so I will make some shameless self promotion to follow me there to see the latest spring-summer collection.You have to be there when things happen! I am also on SNAPCHAT, so be sure to friend me rosalyescueta and on Depop with the same name. By the way, congratulations to Paula Cademartori for her new showroom (lovely interior and accommodating atmosphere) and her new line of footwear. This is I guess an intelligent move for her to expand and look into the consumer behaviour of a contemporary woman. This is no rocket science, if you buy a bag you would like to pair it with a shoe of the same brand, right? I am sensing you’re nodding your head. Yes, we are all right about that. The collection is divided into five (courtesy Press Office):
The Heritage line represents the desire for continuity of the timeless shapes by Paula Cademartori, in soft calfskins, in suede, in super-glossy patent leather and in pony skin. Alongside the multicoloured mix of different materials and hues, the rubberized leathers with a high-tech character and the original combinations of zebra print pony skin and neon hues.The inlays with a cartoon effect introduce the original world of Wonder-Paula, in which big bang explosions of hyper-lively graphics design figures of stars and sinuous waves which recall the space movements.
2. Les Minaudières
The Minaudières line ranges from the variants with a structure covered by different leathers and colours, to the shapes where the transparent Plexiglas silhouette is framed by metal Fabergè-inspired plaques. Laminated effects, hints of neon and refined colour-blocks exalt the Cocca constructions, where traditional nappa leathers, hi-tech patent leathers, suedes and exotic leathers such as kangaroo, ayers and lizard are combined and alternated; in a rhythm of luxurious mixes and combinations which does not forget the Paula Cademartori buckle, in polished palladium finish engraved with the initials PC. Lastly, the Yasmine and Tiana models reinterpret the Plexiglas body with a more rectangular volume, covered by metallic gold or silver plaques that create virtuoso geometric movements and 3D arabesques.
Design in its purest and cleanest form distinguishes the new Radical line, dedicated to a woman with a contemporary and free spirit, and with well-asserted tastes and personality.The creative approach favours mono-coloured shapes in soft or classic shades. or variants with contrasting details and gussets. for functional and versatile volumes, finished internally in leather.Burgundy and sky blue. Beaver and neon yellow. Black and pale nude. Discreet, sober and elegant hues, for models designed to match any look, at any time and for any occasion.The small metal Paula Cademartori buckles are applied to soft and minimalist calfskins, whilst the combination of leather with suede takes on long wavy fringes, knotted by hand on the surface.
4. Small Leather Goods
The selection of small accessories in leather is a nod to all the themes and customizations of the season, captained by the brand new “naughty doll” Powermartori, transformed into a fun key-ring which can also be applied to the bags if wished.From the pouch models of various sizes to the purses, from the travel wallets to the multi-functional purses, the range includes calfskin, nappa leather, suede and lizard, reinterpreting the most important stylistic codes of the season such as colour-blocks, knotted fringes and multicoloured big bang inlays.Chromatic geometries and cartoon inlays are thus alternated in a sophisticated proposal of objects to own or to give as a gift, naturally enhanced by the engraved metal buckle in polished palladium.
According to a philosophy of a complete and coordinated image, Paula Cademartori returns to what has been her passion ever since 2009, when she was studying Industrial Design and took part in the Vogue Talents competition with a project devoted to shoes. Femininity, Sensuality and Colour are the distinctive features of this first selection, made up of 6 extremely elaborate and graphic models, offered in the different colours and materials of the winter and given symbolic names that suggest the main inspiration of each silhouette. Patent leather, suede, printed ayers and calfskin – plain or treated to take on sophisticated lizard print or mirrored effects – are juxtaposed through fabrications and constructions that are as complex as the shoes are easy to wear, marked with the motif of the iconic buckle hot-embossed on the insole.
LOTUS is the sandal that recalls the shape of a flower, with the corolla embracing and supporting the ankle, in a multicoloured game of crosses, cuts and cut-outs that merge geometric accents and delicate petals.
WARRIOR reinterprets the shape of the ankle boot through a lacing that recalls the footwear of Greek warriors, suggesting at the same time the aesthetic reference to the lingerie bustier of the 1950s.
CRAZY STRIPES is the sandal characterized by a collage of strips of leather, in one or several colours, both on the upper and on the heel, balanced by long laces which tie up in a zigzag pattern on the front.
STARRY is the sandal personalized with stars on the front band and on the prism heel, a characterizing element of all the 105 models. The pop-fashion effect is emphasized both in the single-colour variants of black, shocking pink, and red and in the luminosity of mirrored silver.
The movement of the cosmic waves suggests the clean but sinuous lines of the modern biker-boot with a cut-out on the ankle, presenting a luxurious and at the same time transversal alternative for both day and evening.
The blow-up of the season is represented by the new pump with a slightly shortened and pointed toe, destined to become next winter’s all-day-long accessory. It is the statement court shoe by Paula Cademartori, in both the minimalist version and in the model embellished with inlaid stars on the heel.
The brand might be opening a store soon, this was in the plans according to Paula when I had a moment to chat with her. For the prices of the shoes, I really have no idea, so you have to wait next season when they hit the stores nearest to you. For the meantime, the bags for spring-summer 2015 is already available online at YOOX, you can shop them HERE. P.S. take advantage of the -15% off using YOOXCODE: LASTCALL. Ok, tell only your best friends, hush and shop!
20:30-22:00hr NICHOLAS K
Palazzo Clerici, Via Clerici, 5
When I arrived at the venue, I thought the show was nearly starting. Well, you know it’s a domino effect, if the first show in the morning started late, of course, you’ll figure it out how it would start at the last show. The audiences were separated into rooms, a whimsical bluer than blue (just to put it)17th century palace. Outside, is just an ordinary facade but you’ll be totally shock to see the frescoed ceiling featuring “The Chariot of the Sun.” A depiction based on methodologies and allegations. This is not a museum and on special occasions like this Nicholas K fashion show admittance is allowed. I hope this photo from my instagram could justify a part of that beauty inside, view HERE. So, the collection is about “The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari.” Inspired from the 1920 silent horror film which gives a gothic, film noir and steampunk attitude on the look of the models. With colour palettes like oxblood, vamp, rust, gun metal, noir and hand dyed web print. Dark colours but very soothing to the eyes especially for cold months. For women, the fabrications are distressed leather, cozy mohair, stretch lambskin, silk satin and monochromatic paillettes. While for men, the strong pieces that come out are the pinstripe draped wool suits and wool meltons, industrial metal buckles, shearlings, opera gloves and silk stockings. This film was released just when foreign film industries were easing restrictions on the import of German films after World War 1 and now the base of film noir genre in Hollywood, which is quite a very good move for the Kunzes! You can view the final walk of the models HERE and the designers, Nicholas K and his sister after the show, view HERE.
I hope you enjoyed reading this diary as much I enjoyed narrating. Before I forget, I will be updating my MFW first day diary, so stay tune and also make sure to subscribe through email below. Please do me a favor of sharing this post to your friends on facebook, etc through the special sharing buttons below – remember sharing is caring and caring is loving! Looking forward to speak to you on the fourth day! Kisses!
JUST IN CASE fall-winter 2015-2016 sweater & skirt view HERE
Sam-Rone fall-winter 2015-2016 fur gilet view HERE
Consegna Express Gratis
Superga plaid sneakers, BUY this white pair
Sarah Borghi Hosiery socks view HERE
photos of me and Uma Wang fashion show by Gerald Galang the rest are mine